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Most Warhammer armies are composed of units that field in formation - so many models wide, so many deep. It is convenient to put your army on appropriately sized movement trays so you can move the whole unit together. This makes play move faster and will also make your army look much better. When doing this, you need to consider the playability, your strategy, and the actual mechanics of basing.
The first thing you'll need to do is choose the size of movement trays you need. This will depend on your Warhammer Army, and your playing style. Games Workshop provides some trays that are of common sizes, but for mostly smaller units. 1x5 for cavalry, 5x4 and a couple smaller sizes for infantry. Many players are trying to mass units at least 10 wide now - this allows them to benefit from the Hordes rule which in the new Warhammer rules gives them an extra fighting rank. However, big units are expensive, and you loose flexibility. You need to move in formation and it gets really hard to move a big unit like this around a busy table. And, a large unit like this can limit the number of units you have and leave you unable to cover all the threats you'll face on the battlefield. So, there are significant trade-offs. For my large I'm sticking with 6x5. This is traditional, but very tried and tested.
I think the mechanics are a bit easier to understand. The movement tray needs to be of the correct size; it needs to be rigid; it must be easy to pick-up; and the units must stay on it. The trick to keeping the models on the tray is to magnetize the bases of the models and to use something that magnets will stick to on the movement tray. I chose to use washers, rare-earth magnets, Gale Force 9 mettalic rubber sheets, and Citadel's modular movement trays. The movement tray has two rigid plastic sheets that are already marked for the proper base sizes so it's easy to measure the movement trays to the desired size. The rubber steel sheets are flexible and have self adhesive making it easy to attach the sheets. I cut the plastic sheets with the rotary cutter on my Dremel. Then I traced and cut a steel sheet out of the right size, adhered it to the plastic sheet, and then trimmed it to match. I used #8 washers and 1/16th inch thick disk magnets because combined, they are close to the exact depth of the Games Workshop bases. The closer to the metallic sheet, the better the magnets will stick, so this is important. You want the magnet flush to the bottom of the base, if you can. Then, all I did was super glue (cyanoacrylate) the washer in place, and then the magnet. I used Insta-set accelerator on the glue to make it go faster.
The result is a movement tray that can even turn over and the models will stay on. This really helps game play!
I like all aspects of the Warhammer hobby and play both 40k and Warhammer Fantasy Battles. I enjoy making my armies, painting them, and then creating great battlefields to play on. I also like writing about the hobby. Warhammer Armies discusses making and playing with both 40k and Fantasy armies. Read more tips at these fully illustrated sites:
http://www.warhammerarmies.com
http://www.squidoo.com/warhammerarmies
Whats On My YouTube Today?
How to Revive Dry Citadel Warhammer Paints - www.paulymath.com/40k
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