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The Aveyron department in the Midi-Pyrenees region of south-west France has over 20 medieval chateaux, towers and Templar strongholds to visit. Here are three of the most interesting.
Belcastel
Belcastel is a picture postcard village in a perfect setting on the banks of the river Aveyron. The perfectly restored stone houses of the village are overlooked by the chateau on the hill above which has protected them since the 11th century.
The chateau was bought as a ruin in 1974 by the renowned French architect Fernand Pouillon who spent the following 10 years restoring it to its former glory. In 2005 the chateau was bought by American gallery owners Heidi Leigh and Nicolas Leone who introduced a bizarre new element to the medieval halls and dungeons of the chateau - turning certain rooms into art galleries displaying original artwork from animated films!
This might seem to clash a little with the medieval setting but it actually works very well and makes for a very interesting visit with limited edition artwork from the likes of Snoopy, Dr Seuss and Alice in Wonderland on the walls of some of the rooms, next to medieval banquet halls, dungeons and courtyards. The new owners have restored and opened up new levels of the chateau and also added a fantastic collection of suits of armour.
Colombier
The chateau of Colombier is unusual in that it is not set in a dominating position like most chateaux and is surrounded by parkland and grounds of 7 hectares. The chateau has been in the family of the Counts of La Panouse for 30 generations.
The chateau has not been restored to the same degree as Belcastel but the owners have concentrated on developing the grounds surrounding the chateau, creating a wild animal park, medieval walled garden, labyrinth and medieval games area for children.
The animal park includes a small farm with chickens, ducks and goats as well as wolves, brown bears, lions and monkeys all set in large natural enclosures among the trees. The park has been very well thought out with a walkway over the bear enclosure and a glass tunnel through the lion enclosure so you can get frighteningly close to the animals. All the animals are fed in the early afternoon so if you time your visit right, you can help throw pears to the bears and watch the monkeys fighting over bananas!
The wonderful walled gardens beside the chateau present 350 species of plants and trees grown in Europe between 800 and 1440. These are set out in the style of Charlemagne from the 15th Century with vine-covered tunnelled pathways, lawned areas and raised beds of herbs and medicinal plants.
Calmont
The chateau of Calmont d'Olt is set on a volcanic peak overlooking the town of Espalion in the north of the Aveyron. Calmont has not seen the same amount of restoration as Belcastel or Colombier and gives you the impression of a castle still in ruins. In fact groups of volunteers have been carrying out archaeology digs and restoration projects since 1986.
What makes Calmont most interesting to visit are the animations that are put on at various times throughout the day. The best of these is the firing of a life-size trebuchet - the 10 metre tall catapults that were used to attack castles. The trebuchet at Calmont may fire water bombs or sacks of flour as opposed to stones and rocks but it is quite a sight to see the wooden arm whooshing through the air at high-speed and the ammunition flying through the air towards its target.
Other animations include the firing of a medieval canon, archery and crossbow demonstrations, sword fights and discussion of medieval armour.
The official Aveyron tourism website contains more details on the chateaux of the Aveyron.
Graham McLaughlin left the hustle and bustle of London after discovering the calm and tranquil Aveyron department of south-west France in 2003. With his wife and son, he now runs gite and bed and breakfast holiday accomodation and enjoys sharing his knowledge of the wonderful Aveyron area with their many guests.
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