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Painting Warhammer figures is a rewarding hobby and surprisingly easy to get great results. Games Workshop and Citadel Miniatures design their models with strong relief and exaggerated features to make painting them easier and increase the drama of a finished miniature. This brief article covers the basics of this hobby. Once you've mastered these basics, you'll be able to create wonderfully painted armies that will look fantastic as they come to grips against your enemies on the gaming table.
After assembling the models, the first step is priming. Priming is essential. A good primer is designed to adhere to plastic and metal, unlike the other paints you will use, and it also provides an easier surface to paint. Priming will make your models look better and make their paint jobs much more resilient as you play with them game after game. There are only a few considerations here. If you are painting a predominantly dark colored miniature, you can primer the model black. This has the added bonus of making all the recesses and other hard to get spots dark as well so they won't stand out on the finished model. If you are painting a predominantly light colored model - one with very bright reds and yellows, for example - you may consider priming the model white or perhaps tan. This can be a bit more work, in that you will need to ensure to paint all the recesses really well or the white will show through quite well. Finally, you can choose to prime your model in its base colors before assembly - flesh on arms, legs and heads, metal on weapons, your major color on everything else.
Spraying the primer should be done in a well ventilated area at room temperature. Outside is ideal. Consider wearing dust mask or respirator. Shake the can of primer very well, and apply according to the instructions on the can. Usually, this involves spraying in short, quick strokes about 8 inches from the model.
After the primer dries, you can paint your figures. It actually only takes a few colors to come up with some reasonable results. Many Warhammer tournaments require you to paint your models to at least a three color standard - meaning the models must have at least three colors. There are many approaches to painting models. This article will present a very traditional approach.
While very "old school", this traditional result provides consistently excellent results. It involves three steps - base coat (or blocking in), mid-tones, and highlights. The theory behind the approach is to layer on successfully brighter tones to provide greater depth to your model and to make it look naturally lighted. Each area of the model will be painted with matched tones of progressively lighter color - for good combinations for Citadel paints, see Games Workshop's How to Paint Citadel Miniatures, page 96.
First step, apply your base colors to all areas. If your hands shake or you have problems being neat, don't worry. You will successfully be able to cover up any stray brush marks as you go. If you used black or a dark primer, try to let the primer show through in the deepest recesses; if you used white or light primer, you pretty much need to paint the whole model. Multiple coats of thin paint will work better than a single coat directly out of the paint pot. Let these dry, and then "wash" a dark tone (such as Badab black) over the whole model. A wash is watered down so that the paint flows very thin, with color pooling into the recesses and folds of the model. If desired, many paint manufacturers provide pre-mixed washes. This will take some time to dry.
The second step is to apply the mid-tones. A key point here is you want both the base coat and your wash to show through in the recesses and folds - you're only going to paint the more exposed parts of the model. There's two methods - dry brushing and over brushing. Dry brushing involves get paint on your brush, brushing it against a towel until dry enough that you only paint the highest parts. Then just dust it onto the model. This can provide superior results, but it does take time and practice. If you live in a dry climate, it might not be practical (the paint dries too fast). You can also just carefully layer the paint onto the high points of the model directly. This is called over brushing. Over brushing is quicker, but will look sloppier than dry brushing. When done, wash again, but something a bit lighter - such as Devlan Mud.
When dry, you can execute the final painting step - highlighting. You use your lightest tones to highlight the very edges and points of your model's details. You can use the dry brushing method for this, or just the edge of your paint brush. After this dries, you should paint the model with clearcoat matt varnish to help protect it - after all, it took effort to paint the model and you want the paint job to last a long time.
There are variations. I you want to work more quickly you can block in the model and then dip them in Army Painter Quick Shade. This is ideal for large armies. The results will be good. In fact you can even do a layer of highlighting before dipping to help add more depth to the model. If you want more detail, you can do more layers (rather than the three shown here). The ultimate technique is to actually blend the paints on the model. This is a very advanced technique.
Give painting your models a try - even a mediocre paint job will look great from three feet away on the game table! Your painted models will make playing Warhammer much more rewarding.
WarhammerArmies.com is a project dedicated to helping Warhammer players have more fun. It discusses making and playing with great 40k and WFB armies. Read more tips at the fully illustrated site: http://www.warhammerarmies.com
Another great site for Warhammer players is: http://www.squidoo.com/warhammerarmies
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